Friday, May 18, 2007

A good pilgrim is always thankful and never complains

When we were given our "credenciales" at the beginning of the Camino in Irun, we were instructed to carefully read the rules for good pilgrims. On previous treks we had seen these posted (only in the worst, dirtiest and coldest places, I might add) and I understand that there are definitely those people who use the Camino as a cheap holiday. However, there are times when the kind and generous spirit escapes this pilgrim. A brief digression: when we register at the pilgrim hostels we are asked for our nationality, starting place and destination, and reason for peregrination. Almost everyone gives "spirituality" as the reason for walking and I wonder what would happen if I said "to lose weight" or "find out how much I can drink." OK... back to the down and dirty of the catty pilgrim. There are some people you meet on foot that are hard to figure out. For example, the night we stayed in the monastery outside of Burkina Faso, a Belgian man (60 ish and a serious snorer) and his two female cousins arrived by taxi. The story was that he had completed the Camino del Norte a week before, flown home for his daughter´s wedding, and returned to begin again with his cousins. This little trio is the highest maintenance group... always making noise about having to take upper bunks in the hostels, hogging blankets, NEVER saying hola, using all the clothesline, etc. And, suspiciously, found in hostels shortly after the taxis are seen.
Laurie and I have fallen in with some great German women -- Laurie, Uta, Monica and Karoline in photo above -- and we have become de facto leaders of the Anti Belgian Pilgrims League. Today is a short day (11 K for the walkers and taxi for me and El Cidito) and we expect to fall out of rhythm with the offending trio. Enough griping.

Santander is a wonderful city. I got to meet a friend of my friend (Deborah) who has moved home after many years away. Angeles (see photo above with me & Laurie) met me near the Cathedral and I was ablke to give her the gift that Deb had sent... very nice to meet a local. Wish we had had more time together. The way out of the city the next day was a stark contrast to the way in.... endless industrial parks, tiny pueblos without services (read: bar) and all cement and asphalt. The host of the hostel in Santander was out for a drive and offered to take our backpacks to the next hostel -- a private one with a great reputation -- for us. It really helped although it committed us to a 28k walk.
Photo above is a random shot of the cloister in Santillana del Mar -- beautiful spot we visited yesterday. (I had hoped to find a shot of the walk into Santander but I am kind of guessing based on the numbers on the memory card.)
Since then, I have been walking part way and taking a taxi the other to give my tired feet a break. Today we are in San Vincente de la Barquera and will enjoy the beach and be tourists for the afternoon.